The quaint fishing village filled with pastel-colored homes and high-end boutiques is the crown jewel of the Italian Riviera. Portofino dates back to Roman times and has attracted high profile guests since the 1950s. Located along the Mediterranean’s Ligurian Sea in Italy’s northern region of Liguria, Portofino sits an hour south of Genoa and just north of Cinque Terre. Best paired with a trip to Tuscany, Florence, Milan, or an adventure exploring the Italian Riviera, Portofino is a quintessential Mediterranean village full of old-world charm.
With just five hundred residents, Portofino is a quiet town. If you are content to remain in Portofino for relaxing holiday or honeymoon, it makes for a wonderful romantic getaway. However, if you’re looking to explore more of the Italian Riviera, I’d suggest basing out of a more strategically located town (such as Santa Margherita Ligure or Rapallo), then making a leisurely day-trip to Portofino.
The best time to visit Portofino is May through October, when the weather is warm and sunny. Much of the town closes during the winter months. September is one of the best months to visit because the weather is still warm and it falls just outside of peak season crowds and prices.
How to Get to Portofino
How to reach Portofino by train, car, taxi, and ferry. The closest airport to Portofino is Genoa, which is about an hour from Portofino by car. By Train: The closest town (and train station) is Santa Margherita Ligure, which is 3 miles from Portofino. Once you reach Santa Margherita Ligure by train, catch the 15-minute bus to Portofino. By Car: While you can drive the twisty road to Portofino, the town is a car-free zone (except for residents). Once you reach Portofino by car, you must park it one of the two car parks, which are expensive and small. Alternatively, you could park in Santa Margherita Ligure and catch the bus over. By Taxi: A taxi is the most convenient (and expensive) way to get to Portofino. From the Genoa Airport, a taxi to Portofino costs about € 80. A taxi from Santa Margherita Ligure costs about € 20. By Ferry: Seasonal ferries run between Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure/Rapallo as well as between Santa Margherita Ligure/Rapallo and Cinque Terre. Foot: You could also walk the 3-mile path along the coast from Santa Margherita Ligure. The walk takes about an hour and is full of beautiful views!
- Florence/Tuscany to Portofino: Portofino is a 3.5-hour train ride from Florence to the closest train station in Santa Margherita Ligure. From there, catch a bus, taxi, ferry to Portofino.
- Milan to Portofino: Portofino is a 2-hour train ride from Milan to the closest train station in Santa Margherita Ligure. From there, catch a bus, taxi, ferry to Portofino.
- Cinque Terre to Portofino: The most reliable way between Cinque Terre and Portofino is by car/taxi (about an hour depending on which town you’re departing from) and via train (one hour) to Santa Margherita Ligure. Seasonal ferries run several times per week between Cinque Terre and Santa Margherita Ligure/Rapallo.
Where to Stay in Portofino
The Splendido Mare, A Belmond Hotel, is the best hotel in Portofino. The luxurious five-star property features just fourteen rooms and glittering views of the harbor. Stay here on a romantic getaway or on a relaxing honeymoon. Another great hotel option is the Eight Hotel Paraggi. Located in a renovated 19th century villa with ocean views, an oceanfront restaurant, and a beach club, this sleek five-star property is a 15-minute walk from Portofino in the secluded Baia di Paraggi. If you’re looking to stay in Santa Margherita Ligure, the Grand Hotel Miramare and the Continental Hotel are both wonderful (and slightly cheaper) options with private beaches.
Best Things to Do
Stroll Around La Piazzetta di Portofino
La Piazetta is the famous main square overlooking a multitude of bobbing boats in Portofino’s colorful harbor. High-end shops, art galleries, and cafes line the cobblestone streets extending out from the main square. Whether you’re perusing the shops, enjoying an aperitivo, or admiring the gorgeous sea vessels, La Piazzetta is a must-see!
Panoramic Views from Castello Brown
Situated high above the harbor and next to the Ciesa di San Giorgio, Castello Brown was a military fortress dating back to ancient Rome. The structure played a prominent (and winning) role in several naval battles between the 13th and 19th centuries. The Castello later became a private residence and is now open to the public with some of best views of Portofino. This is another must-do when in Portofino and is about a 10-minutes to walk from La Piazzetta.
Admire the Churches of Chiesa di San Giorgio & Chiesa di San Martino
Both the Chiesa di San Giorgio and Chiesa di San Martino are Catholic Churches. Chiesa di San Giorgio sits above the harbor next to Castello Brown. The original structure was built in 1154 and was later reconstructed after the Second World War. Inside the Church you’ll find relics of Saint George, the patron Saint of Portofino. Chiesa di San Martino is located in the heart of Portofino. The Chiesa di San Martino, which exhibits Romanesque Lombard style architecture, dates back to the 10th century and was renovated in the 1800s. The stunning church features a yellow striped façade, an elegant interior with painted ceilings, and an imposing bronze door that depicts San Giorgio releasing a storm to protect Portofino from attacking pirates.
Walk to the Faro di Portofino (Portofino Lighthouse)
The active lighthouse sits at the end of the cape of Punta Portofino, and looks out over the Tigullio Bay. The walk takes about 20 minutes and is worth it for the incredible coastal views along the way. Next to the lighthouse is a small café. Enjoy an aperitivo while you take in the stunning views.
Swim at Baia Cannone or Baia di Paraggi
The Baia di Paraggi and Baia Cannone are serene bays that are great for swimming, snorkeling, and lounging by the water. A short walk from Portofino, the pebble beaches are right out of a fairytale with clear blue waters and pastel homes. Baia Cannone is closest to Portofino and has a small public beach. Baia di Paraggi is a little further, a 15-minute walk from Portofino, and has a private beach club where you can rent a sun lounger and umbrella.
Hike to San Fruttuoso in the Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino
The Naturale Regionale di Portofino is a protected coastal area and marine reserve with 60 km of trails on Portofino’s peninsula. The network of hiking trails connects the villages of Portofino, Camogli, San Rocco, and Santa Margherita. The most popular trail is a 3-mile hike (6-mile roundtrip) from Portofino to San Fruttuoso. The path features breathtaking views along the way to San Fruttuso, a beautiful hidden cove with 10th century San Fruttuoso Abbey. Once you reach San Fruttuoso, swim in the cool waters on the pebbled beach and grab a bite to eat at La Cantina. If you don’t feel like hiking back, take the ferry from San Fruttuoso to Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, or Rapallo.
Where to Eat
Canale (bakery)
The bakery first opened its doors in 1911 and is still owned by the same family. Canale is famous for its focaccia which is baked fresh daily. Stop by Canale and pick up some focaccia for a picnic by the sea.
Gelateria Gepi (gelato)
If you’re craving something sweet, Gelateria Gepi is home to the best gelato in Portofino. The gelateria features an impressive array of flavors, including vegan options. The sweet shop is located on Piazzetta della Magnolia up the hill and near the edge of town.
Winterose Wine Bar (lunch & aperitif)
Tucked away on the edge of the harbor, Winterose Wine Bar is the perfect spot for aperitifs. Stop by the cozy wine bar to enjoy their refreshing Italian wines and perfect views of Portofino’s harbor.
Trattoria Concordia (lunch & dinner)
This family run restaurant is a Portofino favorite. Dine on high-quality local seafood and pasta and if you’re lucky, owner Stefano might play the piano for you! Reservations are recommended during high season. Located on Via Fondco just up the hill from the piazza.
DaV Mare (breakfast, lunch, aperitif, dinner)
In the heart of Portofino’s piazza, DaV Mare is a Michelin recognized restaurant that serves contemporary Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. Come enjoy the outdoor dining space for a leisurely breakfast, delicious lunch, or a memorable dinner. Reservations recommended for dinner.
Cracco Portofino (lunch, aperitif, dinner)
Cracco Portofino is a Michelin recognized restaurant by famous Italian chef Carlo Cracco. While the restaurant specializes in local dishes, it also features a café and bar making it a great stop at any time of day. Reservations are recommended for this stylish restaurant on the harbor.
